Bordeaux to alpe d’huez - a magical journey across france
Twenty years ago, as a young woman in my mid 20s living in the UK, I signed up on Wide Open Road Cycling tours “Bordeaux to Alpe d’Huez”. My friend Kasey flew from Australia to meet me… at the time my French vocabulary consisted of bonjour and croissant (Kasey’s was much better and I was envious!). We laughed as we walked through the streets of Bordeaux old town and really had no idea what we were in for - I’d never even heard of Mont Ventoux! It was a journey that would change the course of my life, with big thanks to Andrew and Susie, who setup WOR back in 1999 (or earlier?) - their dream to showcase the hidden gems and regional cuisine of rural France along with some of the best cycling routes in the world.
Me on the Col des Faïsess in the Cevennes in 2007 (I couldn’t find one from 2005!).
The Col d’Ornon in 2007! Short socks were in fashion!
Fast forward to 2025 and I have just celebrated with a group of 23 people on Alpe d’Huez - having cycled 1,150km and 15,000m of elevation across some of the most diverse regions in France. I think this must be the 7th time I’ve completed Bordeaux-Alpe d’Huez - as a customer, crew member and tour operator and it still holds a unique sense of discovery, excitement, joy and passion as it did on Day 1.
The group met in Bordeaux, Welcome apero - crudites, terrine and the local aperitif lillet tonic at a cute courtyard bar near Basilique Saint Michel.
Day 1 - Le Grande Depart! Easy rolling riding to begin along the Piste Roger Laperbie and Dordgone river and vineyards (where Sheena set a strong pace with Richard…who was ‘smashing it’ of course) with a short hot climb to the impressive Chateau Mont Bazillac with Noel’s picnic a welcome relief. The evening’s meal in medieval Issigeac a tour highlight (foie gras with Monbazillac wine superb) - but the rock concert amongst the medieval buildings made for an evening we would never forget - along with Dave dancing to AC/DC.
Day 2 and it was classic Dordogne - bastides and chateau - Monpazier, Beynac, Castelnou - the history incredible and river swims and gelati a must. Peter S took out the stage win for the day, celebrating on the balcony in the maillot jaune over the beautiful market in Belvès while Andrew found his happy place amongst a group of new riding friends… with photos in sunflower fields included!
Stage win to Peter S
Sheena and Monbazillac
Beth with Belvès in the background
Streets of Belvès
Rest or loop ride day in Sarlat la Caneda was perfect - The young guns turned up (Immy and Jack) and started with an early hilly loop around the Vezère valley with crew Janice and Alfie while most of the group (and Immy’s Mum and Dad!) were content exploring the old town, mulling over the origins of the ‘big door’, eating the local delicacies of confit de canard and foie gras, sampling local wines, cooling off in the pool and Paul even visited the Sarlat’s exclusive coiffeur. Some visited the incredible caves of Lascaux - the prehistoric art amongst the best in the world and a highlight of the stop.
We left Sarlat on a beautiful cycle path in the shade - riding with Penny who loved it so much she’d cycled it twice in 2 days! We moved from the valley of the Dordogne to the Lot - following part of the Pilgrims route de Sant Jacques, visiting Rocamadour and Conques - enchanting, strongly religious villages miraculously built in the the cliffs and valleys. Conques like a fairytale - the slate silver grey stone roofs and exposed beams of the houses surrounding the Cathedral - the tympanum lit up at night in a spectacular light show.
We found ourselves in the midst of a canicule (heatwave) that hit most of southern Europe in late June / early July. Best way to escape 37 degrees ? Go underground - the Gouffre de Padirac - an immense underground cave with a network of rivers a stable 15 degrees year round. Perhaps we were the first group to take an underground boat ride in lycra? Frank and Russel unsurprisingly opted for a Michelin rated lunch - cementing their title of Gourmands of the group (along with Dave of course).
Our accommodation and evening in St Eulalie d’Olt was a memorable meal, set amongst the windy streets of the old town, the meal at Au Moulin Alexandre one of the best of the Tour - the crepinette superb and loved by all (although I was a bit nervous serving the group a set meal of offal). I think some of us may have had a bit too much F’estang d’Estang… (I recall something about kart-wheels and missing shoes) as we walked home to our incredible restored monastery accommodation for the night.
One of my favourite rides is Gorges du Tarn - especially the spectacular descent from Massegros - hairpins to the valley floor spectacular on a bike. I soaked up the atmosphere and took photos all the way down while I think Jack might have set the speed record for the year…? Paul D went exploring again - visiting Point Sublime - a fitting adjective for the riding along the gorge - windy roads, rock tunnels, hidden villages (and more gelati and river swims - a favourite part of Sheena and Paul W’s day). The WOR afternoon tea in Florac superb - our crew member Janice once again showing off her expertise in the fromage department!
Gorges du Tarn - part way down the descent - superb views!
Another WOR classic arvo tea
Paul rolling (dragging me) along the Gorges du Tarn
The Cevennes
We learnt about Robert Louis Stevenson’s Travels with a Donkey in the Cevennes - as we conquered the steep climb to the Col de Faisses and made our way across the Corniche des Cevennes - one could only think of Stevenson and Modestine, as we cycled across the barren, rocky, heather filled landscapes - “For my part, I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to move; to feel the needs and hitches of our life more clearly…”
Another hot day we sought refuge in a casino supermarket air-conditioning - self-made baguettes the best as we sat in a carpark and watched Steph try and eat 4 magnums for lunch.
Uzes market
Giant salads for lunch (salade composee)
Dave and Andrew admiring the Pont du Gard
Two nights in Uzès wonderful - a Provencal style town (it happens to be just across the border from Provence in the department of the Gard) - elegant plane tree filled and portico lined squares filled with fountains and cafe chairs - perfect to refresh with spritz (or was it G&T?). There were plenty of shopping opportunities, the Saturday market one of the most beautiful in France - bountifull tables of tapenade, strawberries, olives, pastries, seafood, terrines as well as rows of colourful flowers, piles of lavendar and clothing, ceramics and more. I walked around the market with my two boys Max and Leo who devoured poulet rôti on fresh baguette. Beth took out the fashions off the field award with matching apres velo wear and a few new purchases in Uzès I believe…!
Many cycled the short route along a cycle path to the Pont du Gard - the famous Roman Aqueduct - the biggest in the world - an incredible experience to cycle across it then swim beneath it. I enjoyed a swim with the family and Mark as we looked up a the structure in awe.
Departing Uzès we made our way to Provence, crossing the mighty Rhône river and pedalling through famous wine towns of Chateauneuf du Pap and Beaumes de Venise - with Mt Ventoux looming large on the horizon there wasn’t as much wine tasting as there may have been… I unknowingly took a detour with Penny, Mark, Steph, Cath and Beth - a few extra hundred kms of altitude perhaps not what we needed the day before Ventoux, but the views of the Dentelles, lavender fields and vineyards superb.
Frank - 27 fois!
After the heatwave of the previous week the weather was kind and we woke to a still, cool morning to conquer the Giant de Provence. Most of the group set out from Bedoin, the 21 km classic side, while some conquered the gentler ascent from Sault. With apprehension and excitement we made our way through the tough 9kms at 9% through the ‘forest’ before the views opened up from Chalet Reynard to the top - superb conditions, a light wind and views of the plains of Provence to the south and the Alps to the north. The timing was perfect and the Sault and Bedoin groups converged at the top, cheering each other in!
Big shout outs to Richard and Jack who became members of the Club des Cinglés du Ventoux - completing all 3 sides in one day!! Chapeau! Immy and Peter C ticked off 2 climbs - not quite as crazy but crazy enough… 1 is always enough for me! Kudos also to Frank, who completed his 27th ascent of the mountain!! 3 more to 30, Frank - you can do it!
We thought the hard work was done with Ventoux behind us, but one of the longest rides of the Tour unfortunately was tougher than ever with a stiff headwind for most of 115km. Luckily, food featured again - the aptly named Apricot Col retained its name - despite the trees being deplete of fruit, as serendipity would have it - a farmer turned up with a trailer load of apricots as we rested at the top… !
We had at delicious lunch stop part way up the Col du Premol at a Bistrot du Pays - a network of rural French cafes, bar-restaurants that are part of a national quality mark. These establishments are recognized for their commitment to preserving the social and economic fabric of rural villages by providing a welcoming space, serving local cuisine, and promoting regional culture. Always worth looking up if ever you are in France. The wind got to some, with the support vehicle getting it’s first real workout of the trip (thx Dave!).
We arrived in the department of the Drôme - surrounded by towering rocky mountains. An overnight stop at the tiny hamlet of Nonieres beautiful to soak up the atmosphere with an after dinner walk to a beautiful waterfall.
The ride from the Col du Menée to La Mure one of my favourites - rolling fields of wheat and sunflowers surrounded by snow capped peaks and the striking square rock face of Mt Aguille Chichilianne prominent on the descent from the Menée. Russel, Frank, Dave, Sheena, Paul W, Pete C and myself lingered slowly - taking photos in the fields and soaking up the atmosphere of the Alps.
Pete C and Sheena on the Col du Menée
Last sunflower field for the year!
The final day - the epic 21 hairpin bends to the ski resort of Alpe d’Huez - made famous by the Tour de France. The morning got off to a slightly rocky start (big thanks to Steph …. and a lesson in route barrée for Alfie) - we re-routed our course to get to Bourg d’Oisans for an early lunch (with big thanks to Noel and Dave for their support duties) before “attacking” and “smashing” the climb, in Richard’s words, not mine.
It’s a climb that in the past I have always struggled with - perhaps because it really is tough (7.8% for 12km with a very steep first 3km at 10-15%) - but also because it’s last - after 1100km of cycling and countless vertical meters. I think I found my happy place on the Alpe at last -I enjoyed the views of the surrounding peaks, the history of the 21 bends and the celebration at the top - Pepe, Max and Leo there to cheer me in! The group congregated together at a finish line bar - cheering loudly for all riders and especially loud for the WOR group! A particularly special moment seeing Emma and Owen cross the line with their daughter Immy and partner Jack there to cheer them on - who’d finished the climb a little earlier in the day… and perhaps a little quicker ;-)
No tour is over without a final meal - and no better way to refuel after Alpe d’Huez than with a mountain specialty - rich, gooey melted cheese, potatoes and salad - raclette! The views from Hotel Castillan delightful as we celebrated together with speech night, laughs, memories and frienships strengthened and new friendships made.
Thanks to our crew, Alfie, Janice, Noel and Dave for the support, driving, smiles, laughs and keeping us rolling despite a few small hiccups along the way (what’s a tour without a challenge or two!). Thanks again to Pepe for wrangling our 2 boys Max and Leo across France and always managing to find a great pool, gelati and menu enfant!
Thanks to our group of 23 people - for joining me on the 20th anniversary ride…. and let’s hope I can still do this in 20 more - when I’m 64!!!
If you are keen on joining us in 2026 - fill in our Tour EOI form or email us.
