RETURNING TO KYUSHU - FAVOURITE RIDES, NEW DISCOVERIES

Oct 21

I was pretty excited to return to Fukuoka for our 2026 Kyushu Cycle Tour. Having run our inaugural tour in 2025, coming back felt wonderfully different. After two to three years of planning, riding and refining the route, I knew what to expect — which meant less worrying about logistics and whether it would ‘work’ and more time enjoying the riding, the people and the incredible places along the way.

I had a few personal favourites to revisit: the avocado ‘sashimi’ in Ukiha and the wonderful onsens of Beppu. I was also hoping for a clear day on the Yamanami Highway, where we’d missed out on the views last year. Fingers crossed!

Returning also meant being a little more food-savvy in Fukuoka, Kyushu’s vibrant capital and the starting point for our tour. I already had a list of favourites, including the little local soba-ya around the corner from our WOR hotel. And I’d made a date with Yoshi-san, our Japanese-Australian guide, to explore some of the city’s less touristy yatai in Tenjin.

If there’s one experience I’d recommend in Fukuoka, it’s a night out at the yatai — tiny street-food stalls that spring up along the footpaths each evening. While the riverside stalls around Nakasu are popular with visitors, we headed to Tenjin for a taste of local life. Yoshi, Rob, Geoffrey and I jumped on the subway and soon found ourselves perched on tiny stools beneath the towering buildings of downtown, watching dinner being cooked over little gas burners. We worked our way through mentaiko omelette (spicy cod roe), gyoza with yuzu pepper sauce, oden, tempura and yakitori — the chicken skin was a standout! — all washed down with nama biiru (draught beer). Delicious food, great company and a seriously fun night out. A perfect start to another Kyushu adventure.

After a few luggage-related hiccups (let’s blame Bangkok airport), our group of 14 was finally ready to roll, thanks to some last-minute crew wizardry that got Susan a hire bike with less than 12 hours’ notice! We kicked off with an exceptional kaiseki welcome dinner beside Hakata’s Kushida Shrine, joined by our friends at Kyudensangyo and representatives from Fukuoka Prefecture, who’d helped us develop this part of the tour. Everyone was delighted to have us back to introduce another group of Aussie and Kiwi riders to Kyushu. And Miyazoe-san seemed particularly pleased with his gift of Barossa shiraz, which he quickly whisked away from his colleagues!

This tour is designed to take you deep in to rural, traditional Japan - for the most part there are few tourists (hardly any westerners) and the people of the towns and restaurants we visit are genuinely happy to welcome us and often surprised to see a group of Australians, let alone cyclists visiting their region. We often stay in traditional ryokan accommodation and on some occasions not only are we sleeping on futons on tatami mats, but the only option for a shower is the communal onsen (Japanese bath) and breakfast is traditional set meal of rice, vegetables, fish, pickles, miso and green tea. It was wonderful to introduce a number of members to the group to these experiences for the first time - and fabulous to have our Japanese Australian guide Yoshi with us to explain the cultural differences and nuances along the way - how to ‘onsen’ and most importantly, the different types of ramen!

One of my standout moments this year was the steep yet rewarding climb through farmland and forest to Futago-ji, a centuries-old temple tucked high in the mountains of the Kunisaki Peninsula. Here, Buddhist and Shinto traditions intertwine with ancient mountain worship, and the temple seems to grow out of the moss-covered rocks and trees. I loved wandering through the forest, discovering a hidden cave with its ‘eternity’ spring water and the imposing Neo guardian statues at the entrance steps. Apparently, rubbing a guardian’s foot brings strength to your legs and loins — so naturally, I gave it a good go. I also left a little prayer for love for my partner, Pepe, something I’d seen two fellow cyclists do last year and had been quietly thinking about ever since. I think the ride to visit this temple was a highlight for many in the group, and only recently after returning to Melbourne was talking to Brett about it, who agreed.

Beppu was another highlight. The region of Kannawa an other worldly place of steam - rising out of cracks in the earth and pipes of the buildings - cooking with it, bathing in it and celebrating it. With one small change from last year turning out to be a jackpot: our hotel. A lovingly restored ryokan, now an upmarket hotel, it was one of the oldest buildings in the Kannawa district, with a wonderful focus on jigoku mushi — ‘hell-steamed’ cuisine cooked using natural geothermal steam rising from the earth. We enjoyed two outstanding breakfasts, one Japanese and one Western; even the bread was cooked in the steam cookers! A walking tour of Kannawa with Miwako-san was equally memorable. She showed us the ingenious steam-cooling devices and a huge contraption of pipes, hissing steam and billowing clouds that looked like something from a sci-fi film. In Kannawa, this is just normal, everyday life.

Jigoku Mushi, hell steam cooking in Beppu

I returned to one of my most memorable onsen experiences: Kannawa Mushiya, an ancient, traditional steam onsen where you lie on a bed of fragrant herbs inside a tiny, dark stone chamber. Thick, herbal steam envelops you, the heat and near-saturated humidity building until the designated eight minutes feel almost unbearable. Louise, Brett and I emerged feeling thoroughly steamed, sharing a laugh about just how intense the experience had been.

When we left Kannawa, the skies were clear — my wish for the Yamanami Highway had come true! This was the biggest climbing day of the tour, with 1,800 metres of elevation as we climbed from Beppu Bay into the volcanic mountains of Yufu and Tsurumi. Along the way, we even spotted a few pros out training for the upcoming Tour of Kyushu.

Mt Yufu trailhead - conquering the climb out of Beppu

Tiny, forested mountain roads are a feature of the ride

The riding here is world-class: volcanic landscapes, big skies and roads that seem to stretch endlessly into the distance. From touristy Yufuin, we tackled one of my favourite (steep) little mountain roads, winding through ancient forests and past rushing streams and waterfalls, before emerging onto the Yamanami Highway and crossing its vast, open grassland plateau for the final push to the Makinoto Pass. A long, sweeping descent brought us to our onsen ryokan, where a well-earned soak and another memorable meal awaited - washed down with local sake and a few glasses of crisp Japanese lager!

Huge kudos to Gayle, Tony, Louise, Tony W and Susan, who conquered their biggest climbing day ever! It was arguably the most mountainous day of the tour, but the ever-changing scenery, spectacular views and sheer joy of riding through this landscape made every climb worthwhile - it really wasn’t that brutal, was it, Tony…?

A beautiful traditional breakfast at our Ryokan

Geoffrey looking out at the 5 peaks of Aso-san as they peak out from the clouds

I could go on about favourite days forever, but another moment I won’t forget is sitting around in the late afternoon at the Grand Aso Brewery, deep within the vast Aso volcanic caldera, after cycling the extraordinary “Milk Road” along the caldera rim.

The day had started bleak and rainy, but we all finished on a high as the clouds lifted and the views opened up to reveal Aso-san’s five peaks — the famous active volcano at the heart of Kyushu. Geoffrey, Brenton, Brett and I settled in at the brewery with local craft beer, made using the region’s pristine spring water. Before long more riders joined us, reminiscing about what an incredible ride it had been. We chatted about the perfect end to a day that had delivered a little bit of everything.

There were plenty more memories, including a return to my favourite Showa-era izakaya in Ukiha. Clearly popular with the locals, it was so busy that some of us had to wait until later in the evening to get in. I won’t forget the look on Tony and Simon’s faces as they sat at the bar with a giant plate of gyoza after we’d initially been turned away!

So, I got my avocado ‘sashimi’ and those big volcanic views on the Yamanami Highway. Returning to Kyushu was another dream ride — a wonderful mix of bold landscapes, quiet forest and farm roads, spiritual temples, traditional rural life, extraordinary food and, above all, the kindness of the people we met along the way. Not to mention a wonderful, easy going and extremely capable group of cyclists (I don’t think we’ve had a stronger group yet - watch out if Chris and Angela get a lightweight bike and cleats! ).

Just don’t forget your spare derailleur hanger (IYKYK!) or air-tags (everyone!)…

I can’t wait to return in 2027, explore more deeply, discover more of what I missed and revisit a few favourites.

Would you like to join us? Our 2027 Kyushu Cycle Tour opens for bookings in November 2026 - make sure you are on the EOI List so you don’t miss out!

What about Shikoku? Interested in cycling in another part of Japan? We still have some places available for our Spring 2027 Shikoku & the Shimanami Kaido Tour!

Also, make sure you check out our Instagram and Facebook pages for more photos and stories and our Kyushu 2026 Insta Reel for a flavour of the Tour. I do have to say a big thanks to Chris, who took many of the wonderful photos along the way - including lots of beautiful little critters! Enjoy the gallery below.

Arigato gozaimashita, Clare.